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With no transport, I've set off
from Braemar
on foot. It's six miles along the road to Linn of Dee, where the road
crosses
the Dee and curves back along the north side and Glen Lui heads off
northwestwards
to Derry Lodge. The Victoria Bridge, seen here, is the first bridge
over
the Dee west of Braemar and provides a useful shortcut. |
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Victoria Bridge gives pedestrian
and cycle
access to the grounds of Mar Lodge, once the hub of the local estate
but
now owned by the National Trust for Scotland. Beyond Mar Lodge I've
taken
another shortcut, along this vehicle track over the shoulder of Doire
Braghad.
The track merges with the estate track in Glen Lui. |
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The weather has been too poor to
take any
photos along Glen Lui and I've now arrived at Derry Lodge, about three
miles from Linn of Dee and eight miles from Braemar. Derry Lodge (not
pictured)
appears to be an old hunting lodge and, though it's in good repair, is
empty and boarded up. There are a couple of outhouses nearby - one with
a public phone - and across the river is a keepers' cottage. The
landscape
of open woodland and grassland is lovely, even under dull skies. Wild
camping
is allowed (or at least tolerated) here and there were plenty of tents
around. |
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Two walking routes diverge here;
Glen Derry,
to the north, becomes the Lairig an Laoigh; Glen Luibeg, to the west,
curves
south of Ben Macdui and becomes the Lairig Ghru. This is the view along
Glen Luibeg (Little Glen Lui) |
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After weighing up the prospects I
abandon
a climb of the nearest Munro, Beinn Bhreac, and head along Glen Luibeg.
For a couple of hundred yards the track becomes sketchy as it traverses
wet ground. |
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The track along Glen Luibeg,
through primeval
Caledonian forest. Pictured is one of the better stretches; it's rather
rougher than this on average. Cyclists are discouraged from Glen Luibeg
and to be honest the terrain is difficult for bikes anyway.
I'm starting to think that I should
consider
hiring a bike. It's already gone midday and effectively I've not
actually
got anywhere yet.
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Glen Luibeg, still under cloud
cover. |
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The slopes of Carn a Mhaim, a
southern outlier
of Ben Macdui, come into view two miles west of Derry Lodge. |
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The glen turns north here and leads
up into
the wild country between Ben Macdui and Derry Cairngorm, ultimately
leading
to the Coire Sputan Dearg. |
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It's supposed to be possible to
ford the
Luibeg burn here but I didn't like the look of the stream. An accident,
a sprained ankle and a drenching would have been all too easy. |
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Fortunately there's the Luibeg
Bridge just
upstream. From here the path crosses the shoulder of the Carn a Mhaim
and
then descends into upper Glen Dee at Corrour bothy, the southern end of
the Lairig Ghru. Unfortunately it's now 1.30 pm and I'm more than four
hours' walk out of Braemar; reluctantly I shall have to have lunch here
and then turn back. No Munros today. The weather wouldn't have made a
climb
worthwhile anyway. |
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I meet a crowd of venture scouts,
nearly
all girls, at Luibeg Bridge. They're all carrying really heavy
backpacks.
They camped the previous night at the Fords of Avon and are heading for
White Bridge tonight. Lovely country to be in but I don't envy them
carrying
those packs. |
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I find a quiet spot for lunch and
suddenly
the cloud lifts from the nearby Carn a Mhaim. |
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Plenty of cloud in upper Glen
Luibeg still,
but it's thinning as I watch. |
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Beinn Macdui, Scotland's second
highest mountain,
appeared briefly. But it soon vanished again and the murk returned.
That
brief clearance at Luibeg Bridge made the day worthwhile but I now had
to return to Braemar, which I wouldn't reach until early evening. |
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I was nearly back at Linn of Dee
when the
second clearance in the weather arrived. |
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This shelf above the river makes a
lovely
picnic spot and I had afternoon tea here. |
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Looking north along the Lui river
from Linn
of Dee. |
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Primeval Caledonian forest at Linn
of Dee. |
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Another view of the Lui. |
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Just south of here the Lui merges
with the
Dee. |
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A riverside scene just before the
Glen Lui
track reaches the road. |
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The access track to Mar Lodge from
the road
on the north side of the Dee. |
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Woodlands northwest of Mar Lodge. |
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Mar Lodge itself, seen from the
south access
drive. The sun has disappeared (and wasn't to reappear for the rest of
the week).. |
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A bright, though not sunny,
interval allowed
me to grab this shot of the upper Dee valley from the road back to
Braemar. |
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Strath Dee in the Braemar direction. |
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A last look back towards Linn of
Dee as evening
approaches.
The remainder of the week was
entirely unsuccessful
and I gave up on the Thursday morning and returned home early.
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